Congrats Trisha, I will contact you for a mailing address and get the book out ASAP.

As I stated in the original post about the contest, I sent a text to my son while he was at work and asked him to pick a number between one and three. He asked why. When I told him he was choosing a winner for a contest, he chose #1, which was Trisha’s comment.

Thanks everyone for leaving a comment!

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I have a brand new book on the shelf that I will send to a lucky winner. It is by James Wells and is titled: Plant Propagation Practices.

Here is what I will do for you:

I will send the book to a resident of the US or Canada at absolutely no charge.

What you need to do for me:

Leave a comment outlining your plant propagation endeavors. Your successes, your failures, your methods, etc.

The rules:

The contest will end Aug 22nd at 6pm Eastern time. I will total the number of comments and ask my son to choose a number from 1 to whatever the total is. The number he chooses will be the winner of the book.

Once the winner is identified I will contact them via email (so leave a GOOD address when commenting!) and after receiving a reply, will send the book to the shipping address they specify.

My decision is final unless the original winner cannot be contacted and at that time a new winner will be chosen in exactly the same way and so on until the book has been sent. Void where prohibited. Must be 18 to participate.

Good luck!

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So what is the secret to plant propagation and rooting softwood cuttings?

No secret really, just the right conditions for the type of plant you are trying to reproduce. Although what I am about to describe works for most plants, there are some that almost refuse to root as softwood cuttings. Purple-leaf Sandcherry immediately comes to mind. Sandcherry cuttings will almost always rot and die if you try to root them as softwood cuttings, so propagating them as hardwood cuttings with bottom heat may result in better rooting percentages. Discovering the proper conditions is one of the biggest challenges in plant propagation.

What is the right condition for rooting softwood cuttings?

Adequate sunlight, temperature, and humidity are three of the biggest factors that affect the rooting of a softwood cutting. Let’s touch on each just a bit.

Sunlight requirements while propagating plants

Plants require sunlight to produce energy. Along with the energy production, the sunlight does another vital role: to help the roots supply moisture to the plant and to draw moisture up into the stem. It does this by evaporating the moisture from the surface of the leaf, which causes a low pressure on the surface. This low pressure helps draw moisture up into the plants stem and up to the leaves.

Because a softwood cutting does not have roots, this process can be vital to the cuttings survival. This can be accomplished in many ways, but the two most common are using a misting system or a humidity chamber. An intermittent misting system provides moisture at a predetermined interval which keeps the leaves moist. A humidity chamber does the same thing, but the method of retaining the moisture differs. A humidity chamber retains moisture because it keeps it from evaporating because the cuttings are enclosed in a clear or opaque chamber.

Temperature requirements while propagating plants

Temperature is one of those factors while propagating plants that is often overlooked. The top of the cutting, including the leaves, should be kept cool, while the bottom of the stem should be kept warm. One way to keep the tops cool is to spray them with mist from a misting system. Another is to use shade cloth to reduce the sun’s intensity, however, you need to be careful not to reduce the amount of sunlight too much. Remember, the cuttings still need sunlight to help with the process of drawing moisture up into the cutting. The sunlight is also needed to help warm the rooting media to keep the bottom of the cutting warm.

Humidity requirements while propagating plants

Keeping the cuttings hydrated is essential to successfully root softwood cuttings. The moisture that is deposited on the cuttings leaves and rooting medium allows the cutting to live without roots. The moisture is drawn up into the cutting through the stem where it supplies the plant with moisture. Too much water in the rooting medium can cause the stems to rot and a misting system is a great way to control the amount of moisture in the rooting medium.

Another thing the moisture that is deposited on a cutting does is to keep the cutting cool. Plants go through a process called transpiration. This transpiration process is quite similar to our perspiring because it allows the plant to release water through its leaves which cools the plant off. This transpiration process is what actually draws the water up the cuttings stem and incorrect amount of water on and around the cutting can greatly affect the process.

Discovering the right conditions to get softwood cuttings to root is half the fun. Go ahead, give it a try today!

For even more great tips on rooting cuttings, visit Freeplants. Be sure to sign up for their awesome newsletter!

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Simply visit my recent article on winning a plant propagation book and leave a comment. That’s it!

The contest ends March 4th, so hurry!

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Why you cannot use a water storage tank for misting-gallons required:

The problem with using a storage tank for misting is not that it will not provide enough water nor enough water pressure to satisfy your misting system. First, I will demonstrate the volume of water needed, then the water pressure a misting system requires. We will use a Dramm pin perfect nozzle with a green pin as an example.

A Dramm pin perfect nozzle that uses the green pin uses .69 gallons per minute at 15psi, .82 at 22psi, .95 at 29psi, and 1.08 at 36psi. To make that a bit clearer, if the water pressure is just 15psi, the misting nozzle will use .69 gallons of water if run continuously for 1 minute. Assuming you have a 55 gallon water storage tank, you could get about 80 minutes of continuous flow if using 1 pin perfect misting nozzle. (55 gallons divided by .69 gallons per minute =79.7 minutes). Assuming you are misting for 10 seconds every minute you would be misting only 72 minutes out of a 12 hour day and using 49.68 gallons of water. (12 hours times 60 (minutes) = 720 minutes. 720 divided by 10 (seconds of mist every minute) = 72 minutes of mist in a 12 hour day. 72 times .69 (gallons per minute) = 49.68 gallons of water is needed). Remember, this is using just ONE misting nozzle! If you are using more than one, the number of gallons used in a 12 hour period will be even more. The number of minutes you could mist per day will be reduced also.

This example is assuming your water pressure is only 15psi. Most misting systems used for propagating plants will average 40psi or more. Remember, at 36psi, one Dramm pin perfect misting nozzle using the green pin uses 1.08 gallons per minute. This means that in the same 12 hour period, the single misting nozzle would use 77 gallons of water! (12 hours times 60 (minutes) = 720 minutes . 720 divided by 10 seconds of mist per minute = 72 minutes of mist per 12 hour period. 72 times 1.08 (gallons per minute) = 77 gallons of water needed.) Using the same 55 gallon barrel (and assuming you can get the 36psi pressure) the 55 gallon barrel would not supply enough water for just two misting nozzles for a single day! Using a much larger tank would provide the required amount of water (assuming you can fill it every day), but how will you provide enough water pressure?

Why you cannot use a water storage tank for misting-pressure required:

The example above mentions the average pressure a misting system for propagating plants requires. This pressure was 40 pounds per square inch, or 40psi. 1 psi is equal to a column of water 2.31 feet high (at sea level). This means that for your 55 gallon barrel (or any other tank for that matter) to provide just 1 psi, it would need to be raised 2.31 feet above sea level to provide that 1psi. To get 15psi, we would have to raise the container 34.65 feet (15 times 2.31 = 34.65). Remember, 1psi=2.31 feet which means that if we want 15 psi, we need to raise the container 15 times the 2.31 foot measurement. WOW, can you imagine raising  a barrel or other container almost 35 feet into the air just to get 15 pounds of pressure to your misting system? Me neither! Without raising the water storage tank to unspeakable (and unsafe!) heights, the only alternative is using a pump to deliver the proper pressure. But remember, this is assuming your tank is large enough to provide the amount of water required for the number of misting nozzles you have.

My experience is that using a water storage tank to provide water to a misting system is wasted time and money unless you do the math to determine if your tank is high enough and large enough to provide the volume and pressures required. Even if you have a storage tank large enough to provide the required amount of water every day, there are a few questions you need to ask yourself, like:

• Do you have the time and resources to fill it every day?
• Do you have electricity nearby to power the pump that is required to provide enough pressure to supply your misting system?
• Can you use the time and money required to get the water storage tank to work for something better, like installing a water line from a well or city water?

Before committing to using a rainbarrel or other water storage container to provide water to your misting system, a bit of research beforehand will save you a ton of frustration later.

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Here is a short list of the parts needed to build a mist system for propagating plants. Depending on the complexity of your system, you may need parts not listed.

• A timer that can mist for seconds at a time. Most timers purchased at big box stores or local plumbing outlets are not adequate for misting because they cannot be programmed to mist in seconds.
• A fast closing solenoid. Slow closing solenoids cannot be used in a mist system because it affects the accuracy of the timer.
• Main water piping. This can be PVC or black irrigation pipe. Main water piping should be at least 1/2 inch in diameter but 3/4 inch is better.
• Various fittings. The required fitting to adapts from your water supply to your misting system will be needed as well as any tees, 90′s or others to adapt your misting nozzles.
• Misting nozzles. the misting nozzles you choose will determine if you need any special adapters for your water piping. Some use a flexible tube that simply get inserted into a hole drilled into the pipe. Be sure to decide which nozzle you will use before starting assembly of the water piping.
• Wire. Irrigation wire  is used to carry the low voltage electrical signal from the timer to the solenoid. If using two mechanical timers, larger gauge wire will be needed to connect them everything together.
• A water filter. If you have a whole house filter you may not need a second filter, however, if your water is not filtered at all, a filter for just the misting system is a good idea. Small particles can become lodged in the solenoid valve or misting nozzles, rendering them useless.
• A back flow device. Some state or local governments require a backflow preventer to eliminate the likelihood of contaminated water being drawn back into the water supply. A whole house backflow preventer is quite costly but there are devices available that are installed between an outside spigot and the hose.

Now that you know what parts are needed, why don’t you visit the MIST Misting System website and check out the pre-assembled misting systems right now! All the parts used are propagator proven so you can stop worrying whether you are purchasing the right ones or not.

If you need just a misting timer, solenoid, or misting nozzles for a misting system, contact me .

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I haven’t heard if it covers the propagation of the plants covered, but I sure hope it does!

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1. Check your misting system daily for correct operation
A quick daily check will alert you to any problems that can be corrected immediately, potentially saving your cuttings from a sure death. A quick glance at your cuttings will tell you if they are being under or over misted.

2. Clean your water filter monthly
Cleaning the filter ensures it is flowing freely. It also will alert you of any debris that may be getting into your system so you can correct it. Don’t have a filter? Install one, it may save your cuttings!
3. Check your misting nozzles for proper operation
The Dramm pin perfect nozzles as well as others occasionally get plugged up with minerals or algae which causes them to spray incorrectly. Knowing how to correct this may save your cuttings from drying out. With the Dramm pin perfect nozzles, a simple twist of the pin usually corrects the problem.
4. Check your entire misting system often for leaks
A small leak will not really affect the operation of your misting system but can alert you to a pending disaster. If a fitting, joint, or other part of your misting system suddenly begins to leak, immediately check to be sure there are no breaks or cracks. A part with a small break or crack can suddenly fail, immediately turning your misting system useless.  As well as alerting you to a potential problem, a small leak just wastes water, something we all need to conserve more of.
5. Check to be sure the solenoid valve is operating correctly
Malfunctioning solenoids can cause too little mist being delivered, too much mist being delivered, or a continuous flow of water dripping from the nozzles. Debris, algae, and worn internal parts can cause the solenoid to run continuously, wasting water and potentially delivering too much moisture to the cuttings. On the other hand, a solenoid that has lost its connection to the timer due to a break in the wire or loose wire nut will not deliver any mist to the cuttings at all, resulting in their death.
Paying close attention to the operation of you misting system can reduce the likelihood of catastrophic failures. Following these simple steps may save you time and money and also save your cuttings from certain death.

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An electronic leaf (often called a Mist-a-matic) is a mechanical device that controls the frequency and amount of mist that cuttings receive. It does this by using a lever with a screen or other flat surface on one end and a switch that is connected to a solenoid on the other.

How does an electronic leaf work?

As the mist is spraying, it falls on the screen on the end of the lever. The weight of the water droplets will cause the lever to tip down, breaking the electrical contact and stopping the flow of water. As the water evaporates from the screen, the lever will slowly raise and make the electrical contact which will send a signal to the solenoid to open and allow water to pass. This cycle repeats itself, constantly supplying the cuttings with moisture.

What are the pros to using an electronic leaf?

Electronic leaves can be a great asset to a plant propagator because they are designed to mimic a leaf on the cutting. As the water evaporates from the leaves on the cuttings, it also evaporates from the screen on the lever. This evaporation from the electronic leaf delivers the required amount of mist only when the cuttings need it.

What are the cons?

Electronic leaves are mechanical devices and mechanical devices can and will fail at any time. Also, as water evaporates from the screen, calcium and other minerals tend to collect on it. This cause the electronic leaf to become out of balance and deliver the incorrect amount of water. Two other cons are bird droppings and insects. If either one lands on the screen, they will render it useless. Of course, once the insect moves away the electronic leaf will operate correctly, but the bird dropping is there to stay until it is discovered and removed, sometimes much too late to save the cuttings.

Do I need an electronic leaf to propagate plants?

Not really. They do a good job of mimicking the natural evaporation of moisture from the leaves of the cuttings, but they are not essential. I have been rooting cuttings for years with a misting system that uses a timer. This setup is located outdoors under a small hoophouse that provides shade but plenty of air movement. Using an electronic leaf is a personal preference. Some folks absolutely love them and some have had their fill.

A recent customers comments on using an electronic leaf:

I recently sold a misting timer to a gentelman who told me he spent years constantly adjusting his electronic leaf and finally had enough. He relayed that he had to fiddle with it daily and had to check it multiple times a day to be sure it was working correctly. He stated that when the leaf was operating correctly he loved it, but it was so tempermental that he did not trust it. He finally made up his mind to replace it with a DIG 5006-IP misting controller. The customer was thrilled that the controller could operate multiple zones, all having different settings. He was also extremely happy that the timer cost less than half of what a new electronic leaf would have.

Conclusions on electronic leaves:

There are basically two schools of thought here.

• Propagators who swear by them
• Propagators who swear at them

As stated earlier, when they work they work great, but when they don’t, an entire crop of cuttings can be lost in a short amount of time. Before running out and buying an electronic leaf, do a bit of research and ask questions of fellow growers who use them. Do a cost comparison and also take into account any future growth of your operation.

To learn how to grow landscape plants to sell, visit Mike McGroarty’s website. Be sure to sign up for the newsletter, it contains some great tips!

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Here’s why direct sunlight should not enter the Nearing frame:

The key to a Nearing frame is ensuring no direct sunlight enters and lands on the cuttings. Direct sunlight passing through the plexiglass or glass cover is like sunlight entering a greenhouse; the sunlight quickly raises the temperature and if it lands on the leaves of a cutting, could burn them. This raising of temperature will quickly cause the cuttings in a Nearing frame to overheat.

High temperatures within the frame will also cause the moisture in the rooting media to evaporate quicker than normal. This moisture typically collects on the plexiglass or glass cover and keep the humidity within the Nearing frame high. Dry rooting media does not provide the required moisture to the stems which will also cause them to fail.

High humidity is one of the key elements to a Nearing frame but if the temperature and humidity get too high, this will have adverse affects on the cuttings. Raising the temperature in the Nearing frame causes the cuttings to overheat. This overheating puts stress on the cuttings which will ultimately cause them to fail.

How to correctly align a Nearing frame:

Aligning a Nearing frame is not difficult but does require a step beyond just using a compass to find North. Why? because a compass will only give you magnetic North, not true North. Magnetic North is affected by geographical location. Determining true North (also called magnetic declination) is a fairly simple job once you know how to do it.

First, visit magnetic-declination.com and enter your city and state. The supplied map will have a marker on it showing your location. Click on this marker to open a balloon with the information you need. This is what I found when I entered mine:

We are interested in the Magnetic declination and whether it is east or West. In my case it is 15 degrees West.

Take the compass and align the North arrow (usually colored red)  to North, then slowly turn so it is pointed to your magnetic declination. Remember whether you are East or West, this means your needle will be to the right or left of the N (North).  Here is a picture showing true North and one showing how I had to adjust my Nearing frame on the West (left) side of magnetic north. My compass actually has marks that show East and West declination on it so that made it a bit easier to determine which direction to rotate it.

Ok, ok, I know what you are thinking…my true North is supposed to be 15 degrees and not the 20 shown in the pictures. There are two reasons my nearing frame is set to 20 degrees in the pictures.

• I didn’t have the compass snug against the frame when I took the picture. This affected the reading by a degree or two.
• I had to fine tune the Nearing frame after the initial alignment to my magnetic declination. This changed my actual true North (magnetic declination) by a degree or two also. Once the frame was set up I paid attention for a few days to see if the sun entered the opening . I noticed that a sliver of direct sun about 3 inches wide entered the opening and I adjusted the frame so this did not happen.

Getting your nearing frame aligned properly is key to your success rooting cuttings in it. With just a quick visit to the link I provided and a compass, you too can get yours aligned properly.

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